The wild and wonderful island of Kalymnos is characterised above all by its dramatic mountains, which draw hardy climbers from all over the world. Along its western flank in particular, the scenery is utterly spectacular, with the coastal highway lined with pink oleanders and forming a slender strip between steepling crags above and dazzling blue waters below. Kalymnos is also greener than most of its neighbours, cradling fertile valleys and verdant enclaves. Add the enticing, car-free islet of Telendos, immediately offshore, and you have a compelling destination. To do it justice, you’ll need to allow at least three days, and ideally rent your own transport.